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Tuesday, May 14, 2013

आओ कुछ तूफानी करते हैं

नई पीढ़ी जोखिम लेने से नहीं डरती। यह आंख बंद करके छलांग लगाने वाली नहीं बल्कि खुली आंखों से छलांग लगाने वाली पीढ़ी है- चाहे छलांग हवा में लगानी हो या पानी के तेज धार में। यही कारण है कि आज एडवेंचर टूरिज्म युवाओं के बीच पहले से कहीं ज्यादा लोकप्रिय है। बस एक मौका और कुछ तूफानी करने की इच्छा जोर मारने लगती है


It used to be highest village in world not so long ago
दोपहर बाद का वक्त था। कुछ समय पहले तक दुनिया के सबसे ऊंचे गांव की हैसियत रखने वाले किब्बर से मैं अपनी मोटरसाइकिल पर काजा लौट रहा था। कुछ समय पहले तक इसलिए कि अब यह दर्जा किब्बर से कुछ ही किलोमीटर दूर कोमिक गांव को मिल चुका है। दोनों ही स्पीति घाटी के दुर्गम इलाके में हैं। किब्बर की ऊंचाई 4200 मीटर है और कोमिक की 4275 मीटर। सबसे ऊंचे गांव का पैमाना यही है कि जहां तक किसी वाहन से पहुंचा जा सके। पहले किब्बर तक सड़क थी, तो किब्बर सबसे ऊंचा था, उसके बाद कोमिक तक सड़क पहुंची तो कोमिक ऊपर हो गया। रिहाइश वाले गांव कोमिक से ऊपर भी जरूर होंगे, बस वहां तक सड़क पहुंचना बाकी है। इस सारी बहस से परे, मेरे लिए बाइक से वहां पहुंचने का रोमांच बेहद ज्यादा था। इस ख्याल से भी ज्यादा कि एवरेस्ट की लगभग आधी ऊंचाई पर इतने मुश्किल मौसम में क्योंकर कोई अपनी जिंदगी गुजार देता होगा।


Way to Kinnaur valley is just amazing

बहरहाल, किब्बर से लौटते हुए ढलान में पथरीले मोड़ पर मेरी बाइक ने थोड़ा सा संतुलन खोया और फिसल पड़ी। मैं धराशायी हो गया। दो दिन में ठीक इसी तरह से मैं दूसरी बार गिरा था। काजा से पहले ढंकर गोम्पा से नीचे उतरते हुए भी यही हुआ था। उस समय तो बाइक पर पीछे दोनों तरफ सामान लदा था, इसलिए गिरने का सारा असर उस सामान ने झेल लिया था। लेकिन किब्बर से लौटते हुए बचाने को सामान न था। इसलिए थोड़ा असर शरीर ने और बाकी बाइक ने झेला। संभला और उठ खड़ा हुआ। मैं मोड़ पर पहाड़ की तरफ गिरा था। दूसरी तरफ सैकड़ों फुट नीचे घाटी में स्पीति नदी बह रही थी। बाईं ओर दूर घाटी में काजा दिखाई दे रहा था और सामने दाईं ओर लोसर होते हुए कुंजम टॉप जाने का रास्ता। ऊपर-नीचे, दाएं-बाएं जहां तक नजर जाती थी, किसी इंसान का नामों-निशान तक न था। एकबारगी डर लगा कि कहीं कुछ हो जाए तो दूर-दूर तक कोई मदद करने वाला नहीं। लेकिन कपड़ों की मिट्टी की ही तरह मैंने डर को भी झाड़ा और निकल पड़ा। एडवेंचर का शायद यही सिला है।

न तो रास्ता अनोखा था और न मेरा सफर, लेकिन था बेहद रोमांचकारी। इसीलिए दुनियाभर से हर साल कई धुन के पक्के बाइकर्स इसी रोमांच को अपने भीतर उतारने के लिए लाहौल या स्पीति घाटियों की सैर पर निकल पड़ते हैं। मंजिल या तो लेह होती है या फिर काजा। एडवेंचर बाइकिंग के शौकीनों के लिए यह मक्का के समान हैं। मेरे लिए भी था। मेरी ही तरह कई सिरफिरे ऐसे भी होते हैं जो अकेले निकल पड़ते हैं। तिसपर मैं तो सीजन की शुरुआत में ही निकल पड़ा था, जब न तो रास्ते खुले थे, न होटल। मौसम भी खुशगवार होना शुरू न हुआ था। यही कारण था कि मैं कोमिक जाने की हिम्मत न जुटा पाया क्योंकि लांगजा से आगे का रास्ता बर्फ की पतली चादर से ढका था जिसपर बाइक चलाना मुश्किल था। कुंजम टॉप का रास्ता भी लोसर के आगे खुला न था। अकेले दुस्साहस करने का जोखिम मैंने मोल न लिया।


Spiti valley has altogether different terrain

कुंजम ला (दर्रा) लाहौल व स्पीति घाटियों को जोड़ता है। जो बाइकर्स स्पीति की तरफ जाना चाहते हैं, वे शिमला से आगे नारकंडा, रामपुर-बुशहर होते हुए किन्नौर घाटी में पहुंचते हैं और फिर वहां से पूह, नाको व ताबो होते हुए स्पीति के मुख्य शहर काजा में पहुंचते हैं। इस इलाके को ठंडा रेगिस्तान भी कहा जाता है। जो लोग लाहौल घाटी में जाना चाहते हैं वे मनाली से रोहतांग व कीलोंग होते हुए लाहौल घाटी में प्रवेश करते हैं और दुनिया के कई सबसे ऊंचे वाहनयोग्य दर्रों (16 हजार फुट की ऊंचाई से भी ज्यादा) को पार करके लद्दाख इलाके में पहुंचते हैं। रोहतांग व कीलोंग के बीच ग्रम्फू नाम की जगह है जहां से एक रास्ता कुंजम ला के लिए निकलता है। जो बाइकर्स काजा जाते हैं और उसी रास्ते वापसी नहीं करना चाहते, वे काजा से लोसर होते हुए कुंजम ला पार करके ग्रम्फू के रास्ते रोहतांग व मनाली आ जाते हैं। वहां से वे दिल्ली या चंडीगढ़ निकल जाते हैं। उसी तरह लेह जाने वाले उसी रास्ते वापसी न करने के लिए लेह से कारगिल के रास्ते श्रीनगर निकल जाते हैं और वहां से जम्मू होते हुए वापसी करते हैं। जिनके पास ज्यादा वक्त जेब में हो और एक ही ट्रिप में लौहाल व स्पीति, दोनों घाटियां नापने की फिराक में हों, वे काजा से आगे कुंजम ला पार करने के बाद ग्रम्फू से बजाय मनाली की तरफ आने के कीलोंग की तरफ होते हुए लेह निकल जाते हैं। दोनों ही रास्ते दुर्गम व दुष्कर हैं। दोनों घाटियों को एक सफर में पार करना बेहद कष्टसाध्य है और इसे एडवेंचर (सिरफिरेपन) की इंतिहा भी कहा जा सकता है।

इस एडवेंचर में थोड़ा जोखिम है, बहुत मेहनत है लेकिन उतना ही सुख व सुकून है। इतने कष्ट के बाद प्रकृति का जो नजारा आंखों के सामने आता है, वह कल्पनातीत है। कुछ फोटो देखकर उसे महसूस नहीं किया जा सकता। इसीलिए जिन्हें मौका मिलता है, वे इसका अहसास वहां जाकर जरूर करते हैं। चाहे वे बाइक से जाएं या चौपहिया से या फिर बस में ही। कई साहसी स्कूटर से भी ये रास्ते नाप लेते हैं। लाहौल-स्पीति के इलाके को बर्फीला रेगिस्तान कहा जाता है। इतनी ऊंचाई पर, इतने दुर्गम इलाके में क्यों व कैसे इंसान बसते हैं और किस तरह सदियों से वहां की विशिष्ट संस्कृति को बचाए हुए हैं, यह जानना-समझना भी उतना ही रोमांचक है।


Biking in Himalayas is fun
 दरअसल रोमांच की तलाश भी विचित्र है, जाने कहां-कहां खोजा जाता है उसे। बस अपनी नजर का सवाल है। लाहौल के रास्ते खोखसर में पागल नाला या स्पीति के रास्ते में नाको से आगे मलिंग नाला के बर्फीले पानी को पार करने का अपना रोमांच है। लेकिन कच्छ के रण में दलदली मिट्टी में बाइक चलाना क्या कम रोमांचक होगा, जहां के रेगिस्तान की विशालता इतनी भव्य है कि आप उसमें अपनी गति व रास्ता, सबकुछ खो सकते हैं? औऱ क्या जैसलमेर में दोनों तरफ रेतीले टीलों के बीच बाइक सरपट दौड़ाना कम खूबसूरत होगा? खूबसूरत रास्तों की बात ही कर रहे हैं तो हाल ही में एक सर्वे में मुन्नार से ऊटी के रास्ते को बाइकिंग के लिए दुनिया का सबसे खूबसूरत रास्ता माना गया था। चाय के बागानों से लदी पहाड़ियों के बीच से होकर गुजरना कितना रोमांचक रहा होगा, इसका अंदाजा लगाया जा सकता है। लेकिन उसकी बातें फिर कभी।

(आउटलुक हिंदी के पर्यटन विशेषांक- मार्च-अप्रैल 2013, में प्रकाशित)

 
 

Thursday, May 2, 2013

A treacherous night at 13K fts


Recent death of a Bengali tourist due to cold near Rohtang Pass in Himachal Pradesh, when struck in an unusually heavy snowfall brought to my mind a chilling reminder of that day… or perhaps night when me and my partner could have met the same fate and almost at same place and in similar… or may be tougher conditions. It was by large distance, the toughest night of my life and but for those three kind souls, could have been the last one. 5th July 2005 was intended to be one of the most significant dates in my adventure life, and it indeed proved to be albeit in starkly different context. It also proved, like in this case too, that weather can be too deceptive; it could topsy-turvy all plans and put your entire carefully planned itinerary into waste bin. It could be a cruel joke sometimes.

Being a trekker and biker, biking all the way to Ladakh was akin to visit to Mecca, ditto for all adventure bikers. An earlier wish to go around the world on a bicycle been nipped in the bud; dream to biking to Ladakh was well nurtured. In Bhasha, I had an able life partner to support and sustain my adventure escapades. With some support and encouragement, we went ahead.  Months were spent in meticulous planning and preparations. I didn’t have a Bullet (that time, now I am a proud owner), that usually bikers on that way normally prefer, but then I had numerous examples of lighter bikes and even scooters going through the treacherous mountain route quite successfully. A brief online search took me to Pardesi Automobiles in Karol Bagh. I got my three year old (Hero Honda) Ambition refurbished enough to withstand the hardship; accumulated all the accessories, including a double sided luggage carrier (of a kind usually used on a bullet, but I got it designed for my bike) and an on-road repair kit. Special care was taken as Bhasha was to ride pillion all the way along and back, since all my earlier attempts to give her some biking lessons had fallen flat. Besides, neither we had any dry run nor I had rode so long (or for that matter even half of it) ever before. But I was more than assured of my homework and some thorough feedback from one of my friends Gagan Sethi who, though younger than me is a veteran of that particular route.

But then I was later to have a face-off with the fact that copy-book, Google based homework don’t always work that well. Well, the flag-off was uneventful, so was the ride till Chandigarh, where we had a lunch stopover at Gagan Sethi’s home. First day target was to reach Bilaspur in Himachal Pradesh. But it was quite late when we reached there. I had my first experience of riding in the hills and that too in the dark. It was first day of a unique (for me) riding expedition. We had covered more than three hundred kilometers that day, another first for me. Besides some anxious moments on turns while negotiating with glaring headlights of trucks, we reached Bilaspur safely. But then, riding in the dark was something that we were not prepared well for, something I missed in my homework.

Anyway, PWD rest house was our home for that night at Bilaspur. An over-spacious room, nice weather and a caring chowkidar greeted us. After a delicious dinner we were off to bed in no time. Second day was planned to have a lesser travel to keep ourselves fitter for ascend to the Lahaul valley. In a bright morning we left for Manali at a distance of just over 180 kilometres. It was a beautiful route via Mandi, Sundernagar, Pandoh along the Beas river. We had started enjoying the ride by then. We had planned our stay at Youth Hostel at Khakhnal village, just nine kilometers before Manali on the opposite side of the river. Though, now YHAI has given its hostel franchisee to a hotel in Prini village. It was a nice and peaceful place surrounded by apple orchards overlooking river. We had covered the first leg of our journey. Real ride was just about to start. Bike hasn’t given any problem till then, except for snapping of speedometer cable putting my distance calculations into disarray.

Once in Manali, weather suddenly started to take bad turn. Although it is normal to have heavy monsoon rains in that part of India during first week of July, but my homework had told me that Lahaul valley was supposedly a cold desert and once we cross over the Rohtang Pass into Lahaul there is hardly any rains. Despite probability of heavy rains, this ‘well-known fact kept me encouraging as Rohtang was just about fifty kilometers from Manali. We kept ourselves in good spirits.

Rain didn’t wait for next day. As soon as we were back to the hostel after dinner at a nearby restaurant, it started raining. Whole night I could hear the thunder and the fall breaking the silence of the valley. I would be lying if I say that I was not worried. I was keeping my fingers crossed for the next day. It was a gloomy morning with rains everywhere and no visible signs of letting up. But then I was again boosting both of us for only a push till Rohtang in the hope that everything will be in control after that. We were targeting to reach Khoksar, less than 25 kilometres downhill from Rohtang to be safe and on the track. We had full specially designed raingears for us. I was quite confident of them to keeps us dry till we reach Khoksar. I never knew that I was awaiting a huge shock. We had barely crossed Manali and started to ascend when we realized that our specially designed, rain-proof, rough & tough gears were not able to withstand the heavy downpour. We had already started feeling wet inside and windy & cold conditions were sending chill down the spine.

Not the best of sights for a biker
We decided to get some extra protection and purchased a couple of raincoats for both of us. Over-clothed, we moved ahead. Rain was getting heavier and I was finding it tough to ride. Despite gloves, hands were freezing because of water seeping inside. Roads had become slippery making it tough to ride. Every layer of protection had in fact given away to rain. I was worried that even our luggage & clothes were getting wet. It was just the start of a long journey and all clothes gone wet would have been terrible. But we still kept moving with two things in mind- first there was not much a choice left and secondly, hope of getting things better as we move on top. Past Kothi and Gulaba we somehow reached Marhi. Rains had relented a bit. We were feeling wet and hungry, desperately needing a rest. Ordered some aloo-paranthas and while waiting for them utilized time by drying the outermost layer of clothes in the heat of the tandoor. We started feeling a bit relieved after getting some warmth from within and outside.

Ride from Marhi to Rohtang Jot is a tricky one, with many glaciers on the way. It was 1 in the afternoon by the time we reached Rohtang top- tired and drenched upto the hilt. Still there were many tourists having fun in few remaining short patches of snow. Tourist vehicles were lined up on both sides of the road on the top. I looked out for a food shop where I can park my bike and unpack some of the luggage to ascertain the damage caused by rain. We were lucky to find Lucky Fast food. Weather was still quite overcast, but we were feeling relaxed. Leisurely, we tried to dry some of our clothes, specially socks and shoes. Plateful of hot maggi and tea were just like a new lease of life for both of us. But as if it was not enough for us, it started raining again. It was just about 3 in the afternoon. My mathematical calculations were working overtime. Gateway to Lahaul valley, Khoksar was another 25 kilometres from there. Though reaching Keylong would have been better, but I was ready to bargain for Khoksar, where we could have found a descent place to stay. We were already too late for Keylong.  Khoksar was downhill from Rohtang and as per my estimates it should not take more than 45 minutes to reach there from Rohtang Jot. It was also safe to ride until it gets too dark. I thought this option to be wiser than returning to Manali. Going by this calculation, we decided to wait for rain to stop.

Fatal combination of rain, snow and winds
But, as the destiny would have transpired, rain was unrelenting. In fact it went on becoming heavier and heavier. Sensing weather, tourists started rushing back to Manali. I was perhaps the only biker there. As I sheepishly and foolishly waited for that elusive 45 minutes window, the Rohtang top very quickly became a deserted place. Two hours passed in no time. By 5, I started getting really very worried. But, rain had become so heavy that there was no way I could have ride. Soon, raindrops turned into hails. It was getting freezing cold. Now I could sense where I had put us into. Heavy weather quickly took away all the daylight. All tourists and most of the vendors had already gone down. My immediate worry was what happens if our vendor also decides to pack up. It was our shelter since noon. Now both of us started getting terribly worried. We talked to the hotel guys, they were three of them. To our big relief, they said that they will be staying there for the night.

Although spending night there was still the last thought in our minds, but that reality was looming large on us. It appeared to us that actually there was nobody on the Rohtang top besides five of us, or at least I couldn’t trace anybody else. Everybody else had gone down. With last daylight fading away, the rainfall gave way to mild snowfall. Now there was practically no way for us to go, either up or down. We resigned ourselves to fact that we will have to spend the night on Rohtang pass amidst heavy rains and snowfall in a shelter which we were not sure, would be able to survive the night; in a company of three hotel vendors, about whom we knew nothing. But then we had left ourselves with no other choice, then to have faith in them.

He cooked some delicious maggi for us
Vendors had no hesitation in allowing us to stay there for night despite knowing it very well that there shop had very little space. They were also aware that there was no other option. Hence, for next twelve hours, we were entirely at their mercy. First few hours were spent in talking and knowing more about them and their families. They all were from Mandi in Himachal. This was their summer vocation. In winters they used to move back to their homes. Unlike other vendors, they use to stay at Rohtang almost for whole summer, but for some occasional trips down to Manali to get goods or some emergencies. They all seemed very soft and gentle to us. You will rarely find such guys in our ‘cultured’ metros.
Maggi was again the choice for the dinner. Once it was over, nothing else was left to be done except for getting into warmth of a blanket. The shop had a partition. Main part was the kitchen and the shop and on the other side of the partition was the makeshift sleeping place of the vendors. We were not carrying any bedrolls with us as we expected to get night shelters evrywhere. But the three vendors were generous enough to not only give us their blankets and mattresses but also arranged for us to sleep in the inside drier and warmer part of the shelter. For themselves they arranged in the main part of the shop. No words can probably justify our gratitude for them. After so many years, even today just this thought sends a chill down the spine that what would have happened to us were they not there.

Bike needed a shelter too
There was no movement at the pass, except for some occasional vehicle crossing. I parked my bike inside the shop to prevent it from burying under the snow till morning. But for our daily needs, there was no other way then to go out in open carrying an umbrella to save from rain and snow. It was snowing whole night and being a high altitude pass, wind was quite sharp and chilling. And actually it was frightening at the most times. Vendors must be accustomed to it, but for us it was indeed a bone-chilling experience. The noise of wind against the plastic sheet being used as roof was terrible. Every now and then we felt that wind will blow away this only shed we have on our heads. And sheer thought of such a happening was unnerving. Quite expectedly we couldn’t sleep whole night. Although terrible headache, high altitude dizziness, fears of unknown, cold and fatigue kept us down and pinned to our beds. It was a very long night.

Snow-snow everywhere
As every night gives way to a new dawn, those terrible hours passed away. Morning was bright. But it was all white. Obviously there was heavy snowfall in the night. Inches of fresh snow was carpeted all over.  Still, weather and nightmarish twelve hours failed to dampen our spirits. We decided to move ahead. After some hot tea and breakfast, we were back on our two wheels. Only then we realized that riding a bike on fresh snow was tougher than expected. We somehow managed to reach the Rohtang top, which was another kilometer and half from the shops and the fun area of the pass. Peril started, once we crossed the jot on the way to jigs below. It was so white that usually beautiful curvaceous road with many hairpin bends was nowhere to see. Not many vehicles had passed since night so there were even no tyre marks to follow. Bike was skidding every now and then and one of the slips was very severe. We thought there has to be some end to insanity. We finally decided to turn back. The skids and the slips were so scary that Bhasha decided to walk back to safety instead of riding pillion so that I can handle bike more comfortably.  Still we both kept slipping.  Once Bhasha even went into snow waist-deep. We somehow managed to reach back to the Lucky fast food. Had a breathe of relief along with tea.
Samaritans of Lucky fast food

With heavy hearts, we came back to Manali. And you know, what? Just before bridge on Beas to cross to the Manali town, bike slipped again. Luckily we escaped any major casualty. Nine kilometers away, Youth Hostel, Khakhnal still had room for us. It was only when we reached to confines of our room and exposed ourselves to happenings around, then we came to that the rainfall last night was one of the most heavy and unusual downpour for the region. We were wise to have turned back from Rohtang as there was not just heavy snowfall on all the major passes till Leh, but the Pagal nallah just across Khoksar was heavily overflowing. Army had stopped all movements on Manali-Leh highway owing to this weather. It means, even if we would have managed to reach Khoksar, there would have been no way ahead for us. Later on, we came to know that Pagal nallah blocked the highway for almost a week. Even Mandi-Manali highway was breached at many places by the suddenly swollen Beas river. It means roads back to Delhi were also closed, although weather had improved a lot. We waited for two days in Manali. Went to places around and even had another trip to Rohtang, this time minus any luggage and met our samaritans of Lucky fast food. As soon as the roads back to Delhi opened, we were off. Our poor journalism jobs couldn’t afford the luxury of waiting endlessly for Pagal nallah to relent. The dream of riding to Leh still lives with us.